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               Plants for High Light Areas:

(Location usually brightly lighted offices or areas within 4 feet of large south, east or west facing windows.)

Agave species Agave

Allium schoenoprasum Chives

Aloe species Aloe

Aphelandra squarrosa Zebra plant

Araucaria excelsa Norfolk-island pine

Cephalocereus senilis Old Man cactus

Chrysanthemum morifolium Florist's mum

Codiaeum variegatum Croton

Coffea arabica Coffee

Cordyline terminalis Ti plant

Echeveria species Hen and chicks

Echinopsis species Urchin cactus

Euphorbia pulcherrima Poinsettia

Gymnocalycium denadatum Spider cactus

Hydrangea macrophylla Hydrangea

Lithops species Living stones

Mammillaria species Pincushion cactus

Opuntia species Opuntia

Pelargonium species Geranium

Philodendron micans Velvet-leaf philodendron

Rhipsalis species Chain cactus

Rosa hybrids Miniature roses

Saintpaulia ionantha African violet
 

Plants for Medium Light Areas:

(Location usually 4-8 feet from windows--average well lighted areas.)

Abutilon species Flowering maple

Aechmea species Living vase plant

Aeschynanthus species Lipstick plant

Asparagus plumosa Plumosa fern

A. sprengeri Asparagus fern

Begonia species Rex begonia

Brassaia actinophylla Schefflera

Calathea makoyana Peacock plant

Chrysalidocarpus lutescens Areca palm

Cissus rhombifolia Dumb cane

Dizygotheca elegantissima False aralia

Dracena deremensis Dracena

D. deremensis "Warneckii" Warneckii dracena

D. fragrans "Massangeana" Corn plant

D. godseffiana Gold dust plant

D. marginata Red edge dracena

D. sanderiana Dracena

Episcia cupreata Episcia

Ficus benjamina Weeping fig

F. elastica "Decora" Rubber plant

F. lyrata Fiddle-leaf fig

Hoya carnosa Wax plant

Maranta erythroneura Nerve plant

Monstera deliciosa Cut-leaf philodendron

Nephrolepis exaltata Philodendron

P. oxycardium Heart-leaf philodendron

P. panduraeforme Fiddle-leaf philodendron

Pilea cadierii Aluminum plant

Platycerium alcicorne Staghorn fern

Pteris ensiformis Pteris fern

Scindapsus aureus Pothos

S. pictus Silver pothos

Spathiphyllum clevelandii Spathiphyllum

Syngonium podophyllum Nephthytis

Zygocactus truncatus Christmas cactus

Plants for Low Light Areas:

(Location usually more than 8 feet from windows, with no direct light; often hallways.)

Aglaonema commutatum Commutatum

A. roebelinii Pewter plant

A. simplex Chinese evergreen

Aspidistra elatior Cast-iron plant

Chamaedorea erumpens Bamboo palm

Crassula argentia Jade plant

Hedera helix English ivy

Neoregelia carolinae Tricolor bromeliad

Sansevieria trifasciata Birdsnest sansevieria

S. zeylanica Snake plant

Spathiphyllum White flag

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Growing plants indoors has always been a popular hobby. They can make a home, office or other buildings more cheerful and pleasant. Some plants are grown indoors because of their colorful flowers. Others either rarely flower indoors or their flowers are not showy but they are grown indoors primarily for their attractive leaves.

Plants commonly grown indoors are often referred to as "houseplants." However, there is no such thing as a house plant (a plant intended to grow inside a house). In fact, when plants are brought indoors, they have to adjust to a difficult environment. Usually, lack of sufficient light and low humidity impose the most severe restrictions on growth, but temperature may sometimes be a problem.

You can buy plants that tolerate indoor growing conditions at supermarkets, department stores, flower shops or nurseries, or you can start your own by rooting cuttings from plants already in your home. However you obtain them, you have to provide your plants with tender loving care.

CARE OF PLANTS INDOORS
Light
One of the most important factors for growing good plants indoors is adequate light. Plants need light to make food for growth and if they do not receive enough light they become weak and spindly. Plants differ in their light requirements. Those with highly colored leaves, such as coleus and croton, flowering plants, and succulents grow best in full sunlight. Ferns, philodendrons and many other foliage plants grow best with indirect light. Plants always turn their foliage and flowers toward the light. So plants receiving light from one side should be given a half turn once a week to keep their shape well balanced. The light requirements for many foliage plants commonly grown indoors are given in Table 1 .

Potting Mixes
Foliage plants do best in potting mixtures containing high levels of organic matter such as peat ( Figure 1 ). The following mixes are suggested for growing plants: 1.2 parts peat, 1 part perlite, 1 part coarse sand 2. 2 parts peat, 1 part coarse sand 3.1 part peat, 1 part coarse sand, 1 part pine bark 4.1 part peat, 1 part pine bark, 1 part perlite Cacti and other succulents do best in mixes which contain coarse sand. A good mix for succulents is 2 parts soil, 1 part peat, 1 part perlite, and 1 part coarse sand.

Generally, soil obtained from the yard (native soil) is not ideal for container grown plants. This soil needs to be improved with peat, bark, perlite or sand to improve its ability to hold water and nutrients. To kill harmful fungi and bacteria, insects and weed seed, spread moist soil in a tray or pan and bake at 200oF for 20 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes. Packaged potting mixes can be bought at local nurseries and garden supply dealers. These materials are convenient and often have been sterilized to kill disease organisms and weed seed.

Containers
Containers used for growing plants are made from clay, glazed clay (ceramic), plastic, metal or wood ( Figure 2 ). Clay pots are porous and allow water to evaporate through the side and, therefore, require more frequent watering than glazed clay, plastic, metal or wooden pots. For that reason, most beginners, who have a tendency to over water, are usually more successful with clay pots.

The size of the container depends on plant size and where it will be placed at home. Containers too large or too small present an awkward appearance. The container must be large enough to provide space for root growth for at least one year.

Temperature
Most plants grow best when day temperatures are of 65 to 75oF (18 to 24oC) and 60 to 65oF (16 to 18oC) at night. A sudden change in temperature can injure plants. Temperatures below 50oF (10oC) may cause some plants to wilt and drop their leaves. Do not place your plants in very hot or cold spots such as near heating or cooling vents, on top of television sets, or near doors in winter.

Humidity
The air in the home is usually too dry for growing plants. Most homes have a humidity below 40 percent. Plants grow best at a relative humidity of 40 to 60 percent. You can help increase humidity by setting plants in a tray with 2 or 3 inches of wet gravel ( Figure 3 ). Water evaporating from the tray increases the humidity around plants. Keep the water about 1/2 inch below the top of the gravel so the bottom of the plant pot is not sitting in water, because this will cause waterlogged soil, which may result in root damage.

Watering
One common cause of plant death is improper watering. When plants are overwatered, the soil remains saturated and root systems are unable to function properly because of lack of oxygen. Plants should be watered when the potting mixture becomes dry to the touch. Stick your finger into the mix up to the first joints; if it is dry at the finger tip, you need to water ( Figure 4 ).

Plants growing in clay pots that allow water loss through the sides of the pot will need to be watered more often than those growing in nonporous glazed or plastic pots. Also, plants in small pots will need water more often than those in large pots. When watering, water thoroughly by applying enough lukewarm (room temperature) water until a small amount runs out of the bottom of the pot. Saucers or pans with catch water should be emptied within 20 to 30 minutes.

Containers without drainage holes should have a layer of coarse gravel placed in the bottom to allow a space for excess water ( Figure 5 ). Another method of using containers without drainage is the "double-potting" technique ( Figure 6 ).

Pot the plant in a container that has a drainage hole and is one inch less in diameter and shorter than the container without drainage. Place several inches of gravel in the bottom of the outer pot and place the potted plant on the gravel layer.

Fertilizer
Many problems with growing plants indoors are often blamed on insufficient fertilizer. However, poor growth is often a result of some other reason, such as poor light. Most indoor plants grow slower than plants grown outdoors or in a greenhouse. As a result, indoor plants do not need as much fertilizer as outdoor or greenhouse plants. Also, rapid new growth is often undesirable as plants may outgrow their locations.

Interior plants under active growing conditions should be fertilized every 2 or 3 months. During winter months, or under low light, the plants should not be fertilized as often.

Many fertilizers are available for indoor plants and can be purchased in a variety of forms: water soluble powders and pellets, liquids, tablets, sticks and time-release pellets. The liquid and water soluble powders and pellets are diluted in water as directed on the package label and poured on the potting mixture. The tablets, sticks, and time release pellets are placed on or in the potting mixture and are designed to release nutrients gradually and evenly over a long period of time. A small amount of nutrients are released from these fertilizers at each watering. Although some of these fertilizers are more convenient to use than others, all are effective if used as directed.

Grooming
The foliage of most plants grown indoors tend to collect dust and should be cleaned monthly. Plants with hairy leaves, such as African violets and gloxinias should not be wet, while the foliage of most others may be cleaned with a moist soft cloth ( Figure 7 ). Clean foliage is favorable for healthy growth, and it keeps plants looking attractive. Frequent cleaning helps control insect and mite problems.Plants should be checked periodically and dead leaves and flowers removed. Some plants require periodic pruning to keep them attractively shaped and at a size that makes them pleasant to have around.

Repotting plants
As the foliage of a plant grows, the root system gets larger, eventually filling the container and the plant becomes "pot-bound." When this happens, plant growth is restricted until repotting provides more room. Fast-growing plants need repotting every year. Repot slow-growing plants every 2 or 3 years.

Water the plant to be repotted and allow it to set for several hours. Place your hand on the potting mix so the base of the plant is between the index and middle finger, then invert the pot. Next, tap the rim of the pot on the edge of a table until the root ball slides out of the pot into your hand ( Figure 8-A ). Pull matted roots apart and cut away entangled roots ( Figure 8-B ). Select a pot which is slightly larger than the pot in which the plant was growing. Place a small piece of broken clay pot or gravel over the drainage hole ( Figure 8-C ) and cover the bottom of the pot with enough potting mix to bring the top of the root ball within one inch of the pot rim ( Figure 8-D ). Place potting mix around the soil ball and firm gently ( Figure 8-E ). Water thoroughly immediately after repotting ( Figures 8-F ).



PROBLEMS
Cultural
Improper care may result in unattractive plants. Some of the common symptoms and conditions which may cause this are:

Brown leaf tips or margins... may be caused by too much fertilizer, lack of water or excessive fluoride found in irrigation water, potting media or fertilizers.

Leaf yellowing and dropping... are caused by air pollution, low light intensity, chilling, lack of water, over watering, or poor water drainage.

Slow growth or light green or yellow foliage... is caused by too much light, lack of fertilizer, root rot or poor root system.

Small leaves and spindly growth... are caused by too little light.

Small leaves and stunted growth... may be caused by lack of fertilizer or lack of water.

Small new leaves and leaves curled under... may be caused by too much light.

Insects
Common insect pests that harm house plants are ( Figure 9 ): Mealy bugs - Soft-bodied insects covered with a white cottony material. They damage plants by sucking juices from the plant.



Aphids - Very small green, pink, black, yellow or blue insects. Aphids suck plant juices and cause new growth to curl and become distorted.

Scales - Circular, oval, oblong or pear-shaped insects with a waxy covering. Scales can be found on leaves, twigs, and branches. They cause damage by sucking plant juices.

Spider mites - Greenish, yellowish, reddish or colorless pests. Mites are 1/50 inch long and damage plants by sucking their juices. Heavily infested plants are covered by a fine webbing.

Whitefly - Adults 1/16 inch long, white and resemble a tiny moth. Nymphs (immature stage) are 1/16 inch in length, pale green and flat and oval in shape. They are found on the underside of leaves and cause damage by sucking plant juices.

Controlling Insects
Carefully examine all plants you buy to be sure they are free of pests. New plants should be kept away from other plants for at least a month. Spraying plants with a forceful stream of room-temperature water every 2 weeks will remove many insects before they have a chance to become a problem. Spray the underside of the leaves where most pests are found. This procedure is best done outdoors or in a sink.

Diseases
Plants grown indoors have few diseases. Most problems are caused by poor growing conditions. Rotting of roots and stems of plants can usually be traced to over watering.

SHOWING YOUR PLANTS
Showing your plants at a flower show can be a wonderful experience. Almost any show will welcome your exhibit. Some pointers for preparing your plant for the show are:

Clean the container.

Remove all dead or yellow leaves.

Cut back unsightly, leggy stems.

Wash the leaves with a soapy solution made with 2 teaspoons of mild liquid detergent and one gallon of warm water. Plants with hairy (fuzzy) leaves, such as African violets and gloxinias should not be washed.

Turn pots each day so that the plants will have a pleasant, natural form. If unturned, plants will bend towards the light.

Avoid placing special materials on leaves to give them a glossy, artificial appearance.

Never repot a plant within 2 months of a show. The plant may lose some of its luster and show transplanting stress.

Never use artificial flowers, animals or other objects with your display. The plant should be the dominant feature. Use totem poles or other supporters that will not detract from the plant.

Show your plant in a neutral-colored container that is not too large or too small for your plant. 10.If possible, allow enough room for displaying the plant. If other plants are too close, it will not show up as well.

DEFINITION OF TERMS
Bacteria - Single celled organisms, so small that they cannot be seen by the naked eye.

Botanical name - A name for which a plant is known worldwide. A plant may have several common names, but only one botanical name.

Cacti - One of a group of plants called succulents. These plants are able to survive hot, dry climates, because they store water in their stems and leaves during rainy periods. Cacti are distinguished from other succulents by the presence of spine cushions. Whether or not spines are present, all cacti have spine cushions.

Chilling - Exposure to cold temperatures above freezing.

Cutting - A section of a plant (stem, leaf or root) capable of developing into a new plant.

Foliage plants - Plants grown primarily for the beauty of their leaves and stems. Because of the susceptibility of these plants to cold injury, they are usually grown indoors.

Foot candle - A measure of the light usually determined with an instrument called a light meter. One foot candle is the amount of light falling on one square foot of surface located one foot away from a candle.

Fungi - A group of lower plants that cannot produce their own food. They obtain their food from living or dead organisms. They are responsible for many plant diseases.

Humidity - The amount of water vapor in the air.

Indirect light - Light that is reflected from one surface to another.

Nutrients - Substances that are needed by a plant to grow and sustain life.

Peat - Partly decayed plant material that accumulates wherever water and acidity slows down the process of decay.

Perlite - Very light-weight, porous material that is white in color. It is used in soil mixes to increase drainage and aeration.

Pine bark - Bark that is removed from a pine tree log during the milling process. It is often used as a component of soil mixes.

Porous - Possessing pores or holes which allow passage of a liquid.

Pot bound - A condition that occurs when a plant is grown in the same pot for several years. The plant's root system gets larger, eventually filling the container and restricting plant growth until more room is provided by repotting.

Potting mixture - A material developed by combining several substances (peat, perlite, pine bark, sand, etc.) for growing plants in pots.

Repotting - Moving of a plant from the pot in which it is growing to another pot. This is usually done when a plant has become too large for the original pot.

Succulents - Plants that are able to survive hot, dry climates by storing water in their stems and leaves and/or reducing their water needs. Cacti belong to this group of plants.

Transplanting - Digging a plant from one place and planting it in another.

Waterlogged soil - Soil saturated with water to the point of sogginess. This condition is not desirable for the growth of most plant roots.

Water soluble - Capable of being dissolved in water.

Table 1. Table 1. Light Requirements for Some Common Foliage Plants

Foliage Plants for Low Light Areas50 to 100 foot candles1(location usually more than 6 feetfrom windows, no indirect light-dull hallways)

Common Name Botanical Name

Bamboo palm Chamaedorea erumpens

Birdsnest sansevieria Sansevieria trifasciata 'Hahnii'

Cast-iron plant Aspidistra elatior

Chinese aglaonema Aglaonema modestum

Corn plant Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana'

Janet Craig dracaena Dracaena deremensis 'Janet Craig'

Parlor palm Chamaedorea elegans

Pewter aglaonema Aglaonema crispum

Silver aglaonema Aglaonema commutatum elegans

Snake plant Sansevieria trifasciata

Tricolor blushing bromeliad Neoregelia carolinae 'Tricolor'

Warneckii dracaena Dracaena deremensis 'Warneckii'

Foliage Plants for Medium Light Areas100 to 200 foot candles(location usually 3 to 6 feetfrom windows, well lighted areas)

Common Name Botanical Name

Aluminum plant Pilea cadierei

Areca palm Chrysalidocarpus lutescens

Asparagus fern Asparagus densiflorus 'Sprengeri'

Boston fern Nephrolepis exaltata

Chinese fan palm Livistona chinensis

Cleveland spathiphyllum Spathiphyllum x 'Clevelandii'

Clusea Clusea rosa

Cuban laurel fig Ficus benjamina nitida

Cut-leaf philodendron Monstera deliciosa

Emerald Gem Nephthytis Syngonium podophyllum 'Emerald Gem'

English ivy Hedera helix

Episcia Episcia cupreata

Exotic Perfection Dumbcane Dieffenbachia x 'Exotic Perfection'

Foliage Plants for Medium Light Areas100 to 200 foot candles(location usually 3 to 6 feetfrom windows, well lighted areas)

False Aralia Dizygotheca elegantissima

Fern asparagus Asparagus setaceus

Fiddle-leaf fig Ficus lyrata

Fiddle-leaf philodendron Philodendron bipennifolium

Fishtail palm Caryota mitis

Golden pothos Epipremnum aureum

Gold dust plant Dracaena surculosa

Giant dumbcane Dieffenbachia amoena

Grape ivy Cissus rhombifolia

Green Gold Nephthytis Syngonium podophyllum 'Green Gold'

Heart-leaf philodendron Philodendron scandens oxycardium

Jade plant Crassula argentea

Lance dracaena Dracaena thalioides

Marble queen pothos Epipremnum aureum 'Marble Queen'

Prayer plant Maranta leuconeura var. kerchoviana

Oval-leaf peperomia Peperomia obtusifolia

Peacock plant Calathea makoyana

Philodendron Philodendron hastatum

Pigmy date palm Phoenix roebelenii

Red-edge dracaena Dracaena marginata

Rex begonia Begonia x rex-cultorum

Rubber plant Ficus elastica 'Decora'

Sander's dracaena Dracaena sanderana

Schefflera Brassaia actinophylla

Screw pine, Sword plant Pandanus veitchii

Staghorn fern Platycerium bifurcatum

Victoria table fern Pteris ensiformis 'Victoriae'

Wax plant Hoya carnosa

Weeping fig Ficus benjamina

Foliage Plants for High Light AreasOver 200 foot candles(location usually brightly lighted offices-areas within 3 feet of large south, east or west facing windows)

Common Name Botanical name

Calamondin orange Citrofortunella mitis

Coffee Coffea arabica

Croton Codiaeum variegatum

Norfolk-Island pine Araucaria heterophylla

Pencil cactus Opuntia ramosissima

Pony tail palm Beaucarnea recurvata

Ti plant Cordyline terminalis

Velvet-leaf philodendron Philodendron scandens subsp. scandens

Zebra plant Aphelandra squarrosa

 

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Effects of Low Temperature Storage on Quality of Twenty-two Foliage Plants

R.T. Poole, Ph.D. and C.A. Conover, Ph.D.*
University of Florida
Central Florida Research and Education Center-Apopka

CFREC-Apopka Research Report RH-93-6

Summary

When twenty-two foliage plants were stored in dark, air tight coolers for up to four days at 36, 41 or 46°F air temperatures quality of seven plants (Araucaria heterophylla, Dizygotheca elegantissima, Ficus benjamina, Maranta leuconeura 'Kerchoviana', Rademachera sinica, Schefflera arboricola and Syngonium podophyllum 'White Butterfly') was unaffected. Chilling injury symptoms on foliage resulting from low temperature storage are summarized in Table 1.

Storage duration and storage air temperature interactions damaged foliage of twelve plants, Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Chamaedorea elegans, Chrysalidocarpus lutescens, Codiaeum variegatum 'Norma', Dieffenbachia maculata 'Camille', Dracaena marginata, Epipremnum aureum 'Marble Queen', Ficus elastica 'Robusta', Homalomena 'Emerald Gem', Nephrolepis exaltata 'Bostoniensis Compacta', Philodendron scandens oxycardium and Spathiphyllum 'Petite' Generally, damage worsened as storage temperature decreased and storage time increased.

Dracaena deremensis 'Janet Craig' quality deteriorated when storage duration increased or air temperature decreased. Dracaena deremensis 'Warneckii' and Neoregelia carolinae 'Perfecta Tricolor' foliage was damaged by 36°F air temperature during storage.

On two plants, Dracaena marginata and Spathiphyllum, no damage was visible five days after treatment but foliage damage was apparent when plants were graded a second time two weeks after removal from coolers.

Introduction

Many foliage plants are injured when exposed to air temperatures between 35°F and 50°F during propagation, production, storage or shipping. Damage, commonly called chilling injury, typically becomes more severe with lower temperature and also as exposure time increases (Lyons, 1973; Marousky, 1980; Marousky and Harbaugh, 1978; McConnell, et al, 1978; McConnell et al, 1982; McWilliams and Smith, 1978; Poole and Conover, 1983). Some common symptoms are surface lesions on foliage, water soaked tissue that eventually turns black and necrotic, tissue breakdown and reduced growth rates (Morris, 1982; Ingram et al, 1978). Since symptoms may be similar to other plant disorders, and damage sometimes does not become apparent until two to four days after removal from low temperature conditions, more work needs to be done to determine chilling tolerance of economically important foliage plants (Conover, 1980; Marousky 1980). The following test was initiated to determine effects of low air temperature during short-term shipping on twenty-two foliage plants.

Materials and Methods

The following twenty-two foliage plants were obtained from local growers; Aglaonema 'Silver Queen' (Silver Queen aglaonema), Araucaria heterophylla (Norfolk Island pine), Chamaedorea elegans (parlor palm), Chrysalidocarpus lutescens (areca palm), Codiaeum variegatum 'Norma' (Norma croton),Dieffenbachia maculata 'Camille' (Camille dieffenbachia), Dizygotheca elegantissima (false aralia), Dracaena deremensis 'Janet Craig' Janet Craig dracaena), Dracaena deremensis 'Warneckii' (Warneckii dracaena), Dracaena marginata (Madagascar dragon tree), Epipremnum aureum 'Marble Queen' (Marble Queen pothos), Ficus benjamina (weeping fig), Ficus elastica 'Robusta' (robust rubber tree), Homalomena 'Emerald Gem', (Emerald Gem homalomena), Maranta leuconeura 'Kerchoviana' (prayer plant), Neoregelia carolinae 'Perfecta Tricolor' (Perfecta Tricolor blushing bromeliad), Nephrolepis exaltata 'Bostoniensis compacta' (compact Boston fern), Philodendron scandens oxycardium (heart-leaf philodendron), Rademachera sinica (China doll), Schefflera arboricola (dwarf schefflera), Spathiphyllum 'Petite' (Petite spathiphyllum) and Syngonium podophyllum 'White Butterfly' (White Butterfly nephthytis). Plants were excellent quality fully grown specimens produced in 4, 6 or 10-inch containers.

Depending on availability of quality specimens, plants were either stored for one, two, three or four days in dark airtight coolers where air temperature was 36, 41 or 46°F (a 3 x 4 factorial design with five foliage plants of each type tested per air temperature), or were stored for two or four days in airtight dark coolers in 36, 41 or 46°F air temperature (a 3 x 2 factorial design with five foliage plants of each type tested per air temperature).

Plants were acquired, stored and evaluated on various dates starting on January 13,1991 and ending on April 10, 1991. Experimental design was chosen for each kind of foliage plant based on available excellent quality specimens, so that five foliage plants were stored using two time periods and the remaining seventeen plants were tested using four storage time treatments.

Araucaria heterophylla, Chamaedorea elegans, Dieffenbachia maculata 'Camille', Dizygotheca elegantissima, Dracaena marginata, Ficus elastica 'Robusta', Neoregelia carolinae 'Perfecta Tricolor', Nephrolepis exaltata 'Bostoniensis compacta', Schefflera arboricola and Syngonium podophyllum 'White Butterfly' were placed in paper sleeves immediately before storage. Sleeves were removed when storage treatments were completed. Aglaonema 'Silver Queen', Chrysalidocarpus lutescens Codiaeum variegatum 'Norma', Dracaena deremensis 'Janet Craig' Dracaena deremensis 'Warneckii', Epipremnum aureum 'Marble Queen' Ficus benjamina, Homalomena 'Emerald Gem', Maranta leuconeura 'Kerchoviana', Philodendron scandens oxycardium, Rademachera sinica and Spathiphyllum 'Petite' were not sleeved during storage.

Before and after time spent in air-tight dark coolers, plants were maintained in different greenhouses so that favorable environmental conditions were provided for all types. Twenty foliage plant types were graded using a scale of 1 = dead, 2 = poor quality, unsalable, 3 = fair quality, salable, 4 = good quality and 5 = excellent quality. Norma croton quality was evaluated by counting the necrotic, dead and dying leaves. Plants with more than two leaves damaged were unsalable. Dracaena marginata cold damage was graded by rating size of the gray bands appearing in foliage (a typical sign of cold damage in Dracaena marginata) on a scale of 1 = no bands or damage, 2 = some grey streaking but little overall damage, 3 = plants noticeably damaged but still salable, 4 = gray bands at least 0.5 cm wide throughout foliage, plants unsalable and 5 = prominent gray bands 1 cm wide throughout foliage.

Plants were graded two times after removal from coolers. If damage was apparent when plants were removed from coolers, plants were immediately graded and the second evaluation was done two weeks later. When no damage was visible immediately after plants were stored, plants were graded five days and two weeks after removal from coolers.

Results

Six of the foliage plants, Araucaria heterophylla, Dizygotheca elegantissima, Ficus benjamina, Maranta leuconeura 'Kerchoviana', Schefflera arboricola and Syngonium podophyllum 'White Butterfly' were unaffected by storage treatments (Table 1). Quality of these plants two weeks after removal from storage was excellent. Although some leaves on Rademachera sinica developed necrotic tips after storage treatments, damage was insignificant and overall plant quality remained unaffected.

Interaction of storage time and storage air temperature had a negative affect on quality of ten foliage plants (Table 2). Chrysalidocarpus lutescens was damaged after two days storage in 36°F air temperature and Codiaeum variegatum 'Norma' and Spathiphyllum 'Petite' were damaged when stored three or four days at 36°F. However, none of these three foliage plants were injured by four days storage at 41 or 46°F.

Philodendron scandens oxycardium were damaged when stored for two or more days in 36°F air temperature. Foliage of plants stored for three or four days at 41°F also showed symptoms of chilling injury. Storage for two days at 41°F or four days at 46°F did not harm foliage.

Dracaena marginata, Epipremnum aureum 'Marble Queen' and Homalomena 'Emerald Gem' were not damaged when stored in 46°F coolers for four days. Severity of damage caused by storage at 36 or 41°F increased as temperature decreased and storage time increased.

Dieffenbachia maculata 'Camille' tolerated three days at 46°F or one day at 41°F without foliage damage. Plants stored at 36°F were injured regardless of storage duration.

Nephrolepis exaltata 'Compacta' ferns stored in 36 or 41°F air temperatures were injured, with the low temperature having the most severe effects. Ferns stored at 46°F for up to four days were not damaged.

Aglaonema 'Silver Queen' foliage showed symptoms of chilling injury at all the storage times and air temperatures tested. Injury was more severe as storage time increased and air temperature decreased. Damage resulted in low quality grades so that no Aglaonema 'Silver Queen' were salable two weeks after storage.

When Dracaena marginata and Spathiphyllum 'Petite' were examined five days after storage, plants did not appear to be negatively affected by any storage treatment. However, when evaluated a second time, two weeks after storage, foliage damage was apparent.

Dracaena deremensis 'Janet Craig', Dracaena deremensis 'Warneckii' and Neoregelia carolinae 'Perfecta Tricolor' were unaffected by interactions of storage air temperature and storage duration. However, both air temperature during storage and storage duration influenced plant grade of Dracaena deremensis 'Janet Craig' (Table 3). When quality was evaluated two weeks after storage, only plants at 41 and 46°F, or stored for one day were in salable condition.

Plant grades of Dracaena deremensis 'Warneckii' and Neoregelia carolinae 'Perfecta Tricolor' were influenced similarly by storage air temperatures (Table 4). Only storage at 36°F damaged plants. Neoregelia carolinae 'Perfecta Tricolor', although damaged, were still in salable condition but Dracaena deremensis 'Warneckii' too badly damaged to be considered salable.

Conclusion

As reported elsewhere, plant resistance to chilling injury varied depending on species (Lyons, 1973). Severity of damage on affected plants was greater as temperatures approached freezing and also increased with storage time. These findings are consistent with previous research with other foliage plants (Marousky, 1980; Marousky and Harbaugh, 1978; McConnell, et al, 1978; McConnell et al, 1982; McWilliams and Smith, 1978; Poole and Conover. 1983).

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*Professor of Plant Physiology, Professor of Environmental Horticulture and Center Director, respectively (retired 7/96), Central Florida Research and Education Center, 2807 Binion Road, Apopka, Florida 32703-8504.

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References

1. Conover, C.A. 1980. Maintaining foliage plant quality during truck transit. Florists' Rev. 165(4290):31, 69.
2. Ingram, D.L., D.B. McConnell, and T.J. Sheehan. 1978. Effects of chilling temperatures on container growth of Dieffenbachia 'Exotic Perfection' . Proc. S.N.A. Res. Conf. 23:39.
3. Lyons, J.M. 1973. Chilling injury in plants. Annu. Rev. Plant Physiol. 24:445-466.
4. Marousky, F.J. 1980. Chilling injury in Dracaena sanderana and Spathiphyllum 'Clevelandii'. HortScience 15:197-198.
5. Marousky, F.J. and B.K. Harbaugh. 1978. Deterioration of foliage plants during transit. Proc. Nat. Trop. Fol. Short Course p. 33-39.
6. McConnell, D.B., D.L. Ingram, C. Groga-Bada and T.J. Sheehan. 1982. Chilling injury of silvernerve plant. HortScience 17:819-820.
7. McConnell, D.B., D.L. Ingrain, C. Groga-Bada and T.J. Sheehan. 1978. Chilling effects on propagation of Dieffenbachia 'Exotica Perfection'. Fol. Dig. 4(4):3-5.
8. McWilliams, E.L. and C.W. Smith. 1978. Chilling injury in Scindapsus pictus, Aphelandra squarrosa, and Maranta leuconeura. HortScience 13- 179-l 80
9. Morris, L.L. 1982. Chilling injury of horticultural crops: an overview. HortScience 17:161162.
10. Poole, R.T. and C.A. Conover. 1983. Factors influencing chilling damage of foliage plants. Interiorscape 5(14):12-13.

Table 1. Date foliage plants were removed from temperature controlled coolers after one, two, three or four days of storage at 36, 41 or 46°F air temperature, dates plants were graded and description of chilling injury resulting from storage treatments.
 

^zPlants were graded based on a scale of 1 = dead, 2 = poor quality, unsalable, 3 = fair quality, salable, 4 = good quality and 5 = excellent quality. ^yPlants removed from coolers on March 13, 1992 were graded March 16, 1992 but damaged when a hailstorm destroyed greenhouses on March 25, 1992 so that plants could not be graded a second time.

Table 2. Interaction effects of low air temperatures and storage time on ten foliage plants.
 

^zPlants were graded on a scale of 1 = dead, 2 = poor quality, unsalable, 3 = fair quality, salable, 4 = good quality and 5 = excellent quality plants.
^yBad leaves were necrotic, dead and dying leaves.
^xCold damage graded by rating size of the gray bands appearing in foliage (a typical sign of cold damage in Dracaena marginata) on a scale of 1 = no bands or damage, 2 = some grey streaking but little overall damage, 3 = plants noticeably damaged but still salable, 4 = gray bands at least 0.5 cm wide throughout foliage, plants unsalable and 5 = prominent gray bands 1 cm wide throughout foliage.
 

Table 3. Plant grade of Dracaena deremensis 'Janet Craig' affected by low air temperatures or storage time.
 

^zPlants were graded based on a scale of 1 = dead, 2 = poor quality, unsalable, 3 = fair quality, salable, 4 = good quality and 5 = excellent quality. Y**; Results significant at P = 0.001.

Table 4. Effects of low air temperature during storage on Dracaena deremensis 'Warneckii' and Neoregelia carolinae 'Perfecta Tricolor'.
 

^zPlants were graded based on a scale of 1 = dead, 2 = poor quality, unsalable, 3 = fair quality, salable, 4 = good quality and 5 = excellent quality.
^yns, **; Results nonsignificant or significant at P = 0.001, respectively.